Mark Willuhn, Executive Director for a regional sustainable tourism non-profit Alianza Mesoamericana de Ecoturismo (AME) and a long-time travel expert and adventure guide, shares with us his top favorite meals in the region. If you travel frequently to the same countries you probably have your favorite restaurants and favorite meals. For the past twenty+ years I’ve been traveling in Mesoamerica from Cancun to Costa Rica, and these are my “first meal on arrival” favorites. Experiment, ask for the specialty, enjoy! I do not have dietary restrictions except my weak attempt to save the oceans by avoiding tuna and swordfish. While things are changing, most meats (chicken, turkey, pork & beef) are still close to “free-range” and, for me, much easier to digest than US products. About half of these plates can be tasty vegetarian options and most are gluten free. But I’m not a food expert, I just know what I like! Oh, and I love spicy flavorful chiles picantes more than your average American…5 minute afterburn is perfect. Once you cross the southern border of Mexico the spiciness drops significantly and the tortillas get thicker and corn without flour options. And don’t even bother with guacamole once leaving Mexico unless you can see them preparing it, usually out of tube (the horror!).
Tortas a la Calle – Merida
The key to street food is look for the busiest vendors. While street food is always a risk, the rewards far outweigh the risk of “tourista” for me. If you are staying in the colonial part of Merida near the zocolo, in front of the church are stands that serve up the most delicious Mexican sandwiches called “tortas”, not to be confused with the European desert. My favorite is pork, jalapeño, cheese and all the extra stuff.
Pulpo Mexicana – Celestun
I love chewy seafood – octopus, conch, etc. This plate is spicy octopus sautéed with onions, tomotaoes, peppers served on rice. Octopus fishing is one of the main economic activities in Celestun (about 1.5 hours west of Merida) and incredibly fresh octopus during season.
Cochinita Pibil – Yucatan (Sunday mornings)
Traditionally, this slow cooked pork dish was served on Sunday mornings. Now you can get it all-day/every day. But for the really classic, traditional Cochinita Pibil, I go to a restaurant in Merida on Sunday mornings.
Ceviche – Campeche
Driving south from Merida to Campeche City, just before reaching Campeche City, the highway swings to the coast. Immediately you will see seaside seafood stands. I randomly pick one that looks medium busy and order Ceviche Mixto. There are many options, all served with little packages of soda crackers. Also heading south of Campeche City there are many. I like the ones just north of Champoton.
Stewed Chicken with Rice & Beans – Belize
Simple but outstanding. Generally available all over the country and my experience is always tasty. The best thing is you can order this at the airport for your last meal before departing Belize. If you are a vegetarian, the Stewed Beans & Rice are fantastic on their own.
Langosta del Rio – El Castillo, Nicaragua
This plate needs a special order since this large freshwater crustacean (about a foot long!) require special traps and a lot of effort. Make sure they are in season. Of all my recommendations, this one may be pushing sustainability requirements, but as of now, there is a viable population in the Rio San Juan.
Baleadas – Honduras
This is the Honduran interpretation of a Mexican quesadilla with its own flair. Flour tortilla, beans, cheese and usually an option for chicken. These are great for road trips. You can order a dozen and they come in a clear plastic bag which you place on the dashboard and the sun keeps them hot for hours. I’m guessing food safety experts frown on this.
Fritanga – Managua, Nicaragua
I like Fritanga to the point where I try to schedule my flight arrival to Managua before 8:00 PM so I can hit the local Fritanga. These are all over Nicaragua and are outdoor, informal grills. You have a choice of grilled chicken, beef, or pork, platains either tejadas or Madura, queso fresco o frito, ensalada (cabbage based), gallo pinto, and fresh juices. Up north in Jinotega they also have stuffed potatoes (heavenly). Each place have their own variations. I go with pork, gallo pinto (beans & rice), tejadas (like potato chips), queso frito, and avocado slices. My favorite juice is from local cactus Pitaya.
Vigoron – Granada, Nicaragua
Yucca, chicharones, ensalada (cabbage). I wish I could make this at home but I’m intimidated by chicharones (fried pork skin). Also, I try to keep my choloestrol under 500.
Guerillas – Sebaco, Nicaragua
Traditionally made with tortillas from the first corn harvest of the season and also the sweetest, with soft cheese (guajada) and really soft/melty cheese. My go-to place is along the highway and used to be a rusty old container (like from ships) with a door cut in the side. Now it’s a nice sit down restaurant, even with bathrooms!
So that’s my take. Each region has wonderfully tasty dishes and these are just a few. When traveling, remember that the cuisine is part of the culture and experiment. Ask for the local specialty but use common sense - for example blood sausage is the local specialty in a number of places (yuk!). And above all, enjoy!
Mark Willuhn is the Executive Director for a regional sustainable tourism non-profit called Alianza Mesoamericana de Ecoturismo (AME). You can follow him and AME members at www.exploremesoamerica.com and on Twitter @ExploreMeso
Lables/Keywords: Mesoamerica, Mesoamerican Cuisine, Yucatan, Belize, Honduras, Nicaragua, Explore Mesoamerica
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