Takalik Abaj Kaminaljuyu Zaculeu Q’umarkaj Iximché This list might surprise readers. Where’s Tikal? For example. This list is composed entirely of pre-Classic (Takalik Abaj & Kaminaljuyu) and post-Classic sites (Iximché, Q’umarkaj, Zaculeu). With more advanced technology, experts have been able to unlock many new insights into the early pre-Classic Period (2500 BC – 250 AD), and I find these insights making Takalik and Kaminaljuyu much more intriguing. The post-Classic sites (Q’umarkaj, Iximché, and Zaculeu) were inhabited when the conquistadors arrived, and were the capitals of their respective Maya Kingdoms (Kaqchiquel, K’iché, & Mam) and I find this fascinating. Perhaps a good way to look at this list is a like a fine wine, it takes some time to see and understand their deep cultural roots and taste their bold flavor and savor the subtle hints at great centers past. If you have never visited a Maya archeology site and really don’t know much of anything about the culture, there a many great books that will get you oriented. I learned a long time ago, the more you read about a site before hand, the more interesting the visit. After about 10 visits to Uxmal, I was becoming bored with the site. Then I read “A Code of Kings” Linda Schele/Peter Mathews, which has a chapter on key sites including Uxmal. On a free day, I went to Uxmal and spent 4 hours in the Nunnery Quadrangle reading and identifying each reference. I repeated the process at the Great Ballcourt of Chichen Itza, and the Great Plaza at Copan. This was a gift and since this revelation, I can see past the hordes of tourists and connect with the ancient cultures of these sites. My word of advice for selecting books is look for publication dates no older than 3 or 4 years. The field of Maya studies is dynamic and is constantly updating/reinterpreting. Reputable authors, avoid the books about aliens, UFOs, etc.
I’ll start with the earliest site of Takalik Abaj, then Kaminaljuyu, followed by the Post-Classic sites of Zaculeu, Q’umarkaj, and Iximché.
Takalik Abaj
With its roots with the Olmec culture, Takalik Abaj is ancient, reaching back over 3,500 years! It is located on the Pacific Coast Piedmont, about two hours from Xela/Quetzaltenango. This site slowly transitioned from the Olmec/Mixe-Zoquen cultures to Maya during the mid-late pre-Classic (400 BC or so). No evidence of a violent takeover. What’s special about this site are the unusual style stone carvings and impressive mid-elevation forests (mostly destroyed throughout the region due to its ideal conditions for human habitation and agricultural production). Evidence suggests that Cacao production was the initial source of wealth for Takalik Abaj. As political dynamics shifted in the region, Takalik was strategically positioned for trade between the Southern Highlands & Kaminaljuyu and Central Mexico (Teotihuacan). It flourished during the Classic Period and was eventually abandoned around 1200 AD.
Kaminaljuyu
Considered the first Maya City-State, Kaminaljuyu lies in the middle of Guatemala City, Zona 7 to be specific. Only a small portion of the site is preserved in a small park, and since the construction was with adobe instead of the familiar limestone in the rest of region, only small portions are excavated due to their tendency to erode quickly. Scholars consider this as “ground zero” for Maya culture as the site quickly became the dominant power of the Southern Highlands from about 1500 BC – 400 AD. Obsidian was the key resource, mined about 20 km northeast of the site. It also traded extensively with Takalik Abaj and the Pacific trading routes exchanging obsidian & cacao, and other items. It’s a small site, mostly grassy mounds, but has a couple of buildings excavated that are quite interesting, particularly the skill of adobe construction. The small museum has some great exhibits – central plaza recreated in its heyday and excavation pit. This is an ideal visit when you have a few hours free in Guatemala City. Pair this with the Popul Vuh Museum and you can start your trip with an excellent base of understanding.
Zaculeu
From early Classic Period, Zaculeu went from Mam to Teotihuacaneco/Central Mexico back to Mam to K’iché to Spanish to Unitied Fruit! This has been the historical capital of the Mam Maya Kingdom until conquered by their rivals the K’iché. Just on the outskirts of the modern city of Huehuetenango, this is still the heart of the Mam Maya. The Spanish conquistador, Alvarado, officially conquered it in 1524. At this time it was controlled by the K’iché who oversaw the Mam. Most striking aspect of Zaculeu is it is reconstructed with modern cement thanks to United Fruit efforts in the 1940s. Also striking is the many Mam school kids and parents in traditional dress visiting the site. The variety of architectural styles is interesting, with beautiful views of the looming Cuchumatanes Mountain Range in the background.
Q’umarkaj
First, this place has a lot of different spellings – it is located a few kilometers from the modern city of Santa Cruz del Quiche. This capital of the K’iché Maya Kingdom is nestled in quiet pine trees. This small, tranquil site has a Machiavellian history. The K’iché Maya have lived in the highlands documented to at least 600 BC. The origin of Q’umarkaj as a center of power begins around 1200 AD with a takeover by Putun Maya (traders that originated from the Gulf Coast around Tabasco, Mexico). These invaders married into local elite families and quickly became assimilated. The relatively short and violent history is well documented through a number of surviving colonial era texts. Conquering the Mam, Tz’utujil, Kaqchiquel. Losing territory, gaining territory, getting vassalage to the Aztecs, then ultimate revenge from their enemies the Kaqchiquel, who allied with the Spanish and burned the place to the ground in 1524. Present day, this is a sacred site for the K’iché and easy to observe rituals. There is also a cave at the site that is also used for rituals.
Iximché
Iximché was the capital of Kaqchiquel Maya Kingdom after their rebellion against the K’iché. Visually, the site appears to be the largest of the three post-Classic sites, but it only existed for 50 years! The split happened when the Kaqchiquel were forced to flee Q’umarkaj and founded Iximché in 1470. They defeated the K’iché in subsequent battle and then entered into an alliance with the Aztec of central Mexico. When they received communications of the arrival of Hernan Cortez in Mexico, they sent messengers to work out an alliance with the Spanish. So Alvarado, the local Conquistador, already had allies before he arrived in Guatemala. Alvarado was well received and Iximché was declared the first capital of Guatemala. Predictably, things went sour and Iximché was burned to the ground in 1526. At the back of the site is a dedicated ritual area for present-day Maya. A fascinating place to observe present day practices and ponder the upheaval of the region before, during and after the arrival of the Spanish.
So with quite a bit of imagination, some reading beforehand, I hope you enjoy these 5 sites as much as I have. Each one stands out on their unique esthetics, local Maya populations, and deep historic roots. I must state that I am not a Maya scholar, and all points and historic references open to some level of debate. Theories evolve just like people. These are all relatively small sites and can be visited in 1 – 2 hours, depending on the depth you want to go and if there are rituals you want to observe. All these sites are excellent birdwatching areas, with the exception of Kaminaljuyu (but is an urban refuge for limited species).
All these sites are within about 4 hours of Guatemala City, the exceptions being Kaminaljuyu in Guatemala City, and Zaculeu is about 5 hours drive. My recommendation for a 6-day itinerary would be:
Day 1)Kaminaljuyu & Popul Vuh Museum, overnight Guatemala City
Day 2)Takalik Abaj and overnight at the Takalik Maya Lodge
Day 3)Zaculeu – about a 3.5 hour drive, overnight in Huehuetenango
Day 4)Q’umarkaj – about 2.5 hours drive from Huehuetenango and overnight in Chichicastenango (market day in Chichi is Thursday so plan your overnight accordingly)
Day 5)Iximché – about 2 hours from Chichicastenango and overnight in Antigua or Guatemala City (about 1 hour + traffic).
Day 6)Depart (or flight to Flores for Tikal, Yaxha, Uaxactun, El Mirador, Piedras Negras, Dos Pilas, Aguatecas, El Ceibal, El Perú and Quirigua in the Peten/Montagua Valley! You get the idea.)
Mark Willuhn is the Executive Director for a regional sustainable tourism non-profit called Alianza Mesoamericana de Ecoturismo (AME). You can follow him and AME members at www.exploremesoamerica.com and on Twitter @ExploreMeso Facebook: Explore Mesoamerica
Leave Comment